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Q. How about some quick tips for those times when fish are reluctant to bite?

Bill: A tactic that works extremely well for me when bass are very inactive is to fish smaller lures. The idea is to make it as easy as possible for the fish to take your offering with minimum effort.
Successful captures in nature are not always easy for predators and bigger prey is generally more difficult to catch than smaller prey. An inactive predator might ignore something it views as more difficult to capture, but if it is small, looks more natural and doesn't’t move too fast or isn't’t too intimidating, you had better get ready for some strikes!

Q. Why do you consider lure vibration so important?

Bill: Largemouth bass respond best to heavily-vibrating baits when their sight is restricted, such as in heavily-stained or muddy water, at night or in deep water where there is low light. When fishing under these conditions, it is smart to increase lure vibrations. You can do this by using larger lures, making several casts to the same location and slowing your retrieve.

Q. What type of lure do you find best for catching suspended bass?

Bill: Suspended bass can be some of the most difficult to catch—simply because when they are suspended they are usually inactive and don’t want to chase a lure. A valuable bass fishing techniques is to keep something appealing in their strike zone long enough, they are much more apt to bite. Two of the most effective lures I’I've used are the Smithwick 4 1/2-inch suspending Rogue and Bomber’s Excalibur Minnow.
The reasons these baits work so well is their ability to deliver an enticing, darting action and they suspend well in between twitches on or just above the bass’s depth level. This is an unbeatable technique—but naturally, you will have to experiment with sizes and colors.

Q. Why are plastic rigs such high-percentage offerings?

Bill: I think it is because they feel and look so natural. Plus, they can be fished at all depths and be made to follow the exact terrain of the bottom and climb up and over and through most forms of cover.
It is also important to remember that these lures are baits that have to be seen by a fish before it hits them. Unlike most lures, there is practically no vibration with plastics. Therefore, they produce best in slightly-stained to clear water. It is one of the most consistent fish-catchers on the market today—especially when the water temps are above 60 degrees.

Can line size have an effect on the speed of your lure?

It certainly can, depending on what pound test line you’re using. Example, let’s say your spool is filled with 8-10-pound test, the size of the spool or retrieve speed won’t change much during a cast. But let’s say you’re fishing 20-pound test or heavier. This line will naturally have a much larger diameter, so the spool size may be reduced. Therefore, the retrieve speed in­creases as you crank or work the lure in.

I do a lot of open-water fishing and prefer to use larger lures most of the time. If you were going to buy a rod for this situation what would it be?

When fishing open water with big baits, my choice in rods is a quality built 7-7-1/2-foot with medium-action. They provide a better hook-set, take up line faster, provide more leverage and power and reduce line stretch when a fish strikes at the end of a long cast.

Q. Why are so many big bass caught on slow moving lures?

Bill: Well, there are two key reasons. Big bass are not tailored to long pursuit meaning, they don’t do the 100-yard dash to catch their prey.  Secondly, and perhaps most important, is limited strike speed.
Researchers at Florida State studied largemouth bass to determine how increasing body size, affected jaw physiology, and feeding behavior. Although jaw structure increases proportionately as size increases, larger bass open and close their mouths slower than smaller bass. This produces a slower overall strike speed in larger fish.
According to the research, the strike of a 5-pound bass takes 50 percent longer than that of a 1-pound bass.  Strike speed continues to decrease as bass size increases.
Based on this study, when fishing for large bass, it might be smart to wait a second or two before setting the hook.

Q. When shad are being chased by largemouth bass what is the lure that produces the most?

Bill: If you are talking schooling, water-slashing bass sometimes all you have to do is hit the water to get bit. But this answer can also vary with fishing factors. For example, where exactly are these shad being chased? Is the action on the surface or beneath? Are the shad balled up on humps or near thick vegetation?
Most often such schools will be in open water, but not always.
It’s the old toolbox or golf bag comparison. Which tool or club (depending on which analogy you favor) will work best for the situation.
It is a no-brainer that you need something that looks like a shad. There is a ton of them on the market. What’s your favorite? My own personal preference is going to dictate that the Spit’N’Image will work for surfacing fish and the Swim’N’Image is good for fish just beneath the surface. I would round out this threesome with the Bomber Fat Free Shad if I needed something to run a little deeper.
Whatever you choose, it is important that your lure has an injured-baitfish look. Be sure to fish your choice erratically. The bait needs to look “different” or unique. All of nature’s predators —bass included — favor taking advantage of the weak. The law of the jungle also applies to the lake — only the strong survive. Rest assured a baitfish lure that appears injured has a much better chance of getting bit.
Something else that is important is your electronics. It will help you locate schools of baitfish.
Wind-blown banks often hold concentrations of baitfish. Not because the wind has blown the fish, but because the wind has blown/concentrated the plankton which the schools of shad are feeding on.
Sometimes you can locate schooling baitfish by the oil slick that rises above the school as it moves about. Likewise a pair of sunglasses can help you see things that might otherwise go unseen or noticed. Being observant pays off in bites.

Q. Bill, I’m in a rut. I catch some quality fish from a certain spot on a certain lure one day, then return there time after time and pound it with the same lure and presentation with zero results. I change baits with every type presentation imaginable and still no luck. Got any tips?

Bill: I told him, “Tell you what, this season forget your old bass holes and look for some new spots on your area waters when largemouth bass fishing. Make it a point to spend several days fishing places you’ve never tried before with lures you might not ordinarily use. You might just happen upon the winning combination.”

Q. How do I fish where there’s a lot of lily pads and which lure is best?

  Bass love pads for several reasons: they provide protection from the sun and overhead predators; create a habitat for minnows, crawfish and other forage in the lake; provide cooler temperatures and more oxygen-rich waters; and pads provide lakes with certain amounts of nutrients. Pads also provide fish a comfort zone in that the water temps can be 5-10 degrees cooler in their shade.
Here are a few tips on fishing pads:
• Listen for sounds when fishing the pads. Like when you hear the smacking of bream, when you hear bass in the pads, get ready, good things are about to happen.
• When the water is very calm is an ideal time to fish pads.
• When I fish pads I use a 6-foot rod (or longer) casting rod that has a fast action and enough strength to horse a bass out of this tough form of cover. It helps to have 17- to 25-pound test line. When you hook one, it is important to get the fish out of the pads and moving toward you.
• Several baits (including topwater plugs, shallow-running crankbaits, spinnerbaits, plastic worms and soft-plastic jerkbaits) can be fished along the edge of a pad bank, but weedless lures (spoons, buzzbaits, floating worms and frogs are the only choices when the bass are well back inside the cover.
• Concentrate on key areas. Search for areas that are unusual — like a point in the pads for example. Don’t waste your time fishing look-alike areas that fail to produce after a cast or two. Look for any isolated clump of pads and target it.
• Also, don’t overlook isolated openings in the pads, though it can be tough to pull bass out of such holes. It is tough to be quiet fishing such areas. Using a stout push pole can help you navigate to such holes with little or less disturbance.
• When people think fishing lily pads, they most often think of the big green bonnets of spring and summer. But bear in mind that when dead pads and stems sink beneath the surface they provide a tremendous amount of cover during other times of the year such as winter.
When fishing winter pads, consider using soft jerk baits, some of the most lifelike baits around.

Q. Why are so many big bass caught on slow-moving lures?

Bill: Two key reasons! Large mouth bass are not tailored to long pursuit meaning, they don’t do the 100-yard dash to catch their prey. Secondly, and perhaps most important, is limited strike speed. Researchers at Florida State studied largemouth bass to determine how increasing body size, affected jaw physiology, and feeding behavior.
Although jaw structure increases proportionately as size increases, larger bass open and close their mouths slower than smaller bass. This produces a slower overall strike speed in larger fish.
According to the research, the strike of a 5-pound bass takes 50 percent longer than that of a 1-pound bass. Strike speed continues to decrease as bass size increases.
Based on this study, when fishing for large bass, it might be smart to wait a second or two before setting the hook.

Q. How important is presentation when it comes to fishing lures?

Bill: The fisherman who realizes the importance of lure presentation really has the odds in his favor. Bass are notorious for being selective in what they eat. But brother, when you’re offering them an artificial lure made from a chunk of wood, plastic, rubber, lead, metal or pork, a lot — and I do mean a lot — of thought should be given to the size, weight, color, action and speed of that lure. Sure, there are gonna be times when a fast action works well, and other times when the fish want either a slow action or practically no action at all. There’s simply no question about it: the correct presentation isn’t only a good thing, quite often, it’s the only thing!
The word “presentation” is a mighty powerful word, and it means a lot more than just casting a lure out and working it back. You could say that presentation is actually a technique which includes boat positioning, the distance and approach to your target, how you handle the speed of your trolling motor, how you position yourself in regard to the wind, the sun, the barometric pressure, the type of area, target and depth you’re planning to fish, and last but not least, the lure you use...and how and where you work it.
I can’t emphasize enough that there is a lot more involved in your presentation than just blundering down the lake chunking a lure here and there. It’s important to put a lot of thought into every move you make. This is one reason why some anglers are more successful than others.
You gotta always experiment with different lures, colors and sizes until you find what works best in that situation. Normally, the fish will tell you how they want it. They’ll indicate whether they want it big or small, fast or slow at a given time. More tips on lures are available in my bill dance fishing videos.

Q. What can you tell me about “contact lures” in bass fishing?

Bill: I once read that the concept of a contact lure is one that many bass anglers fail to grasp. In essence what the article explained, was that contact lures are lures that come into contact with objects, such as stumps, rocks, brush, grass or the bottom; mud, sand, gravel, clay or whatever. This is just part of my fishing lure guide!
The most familiar contact lures are plastic worms, tubes, lizards, creature baits and jigs, and guess which lures catch the biggest fish? You got it. It’s those I have mentioned.
Let’s analyze this for a second and learn a little more about just what turns big bass on.
When you think about it, the lures I just mentioned have very little built-in action of their own. When they fall, swim, bump, jump or wiggle, it’s usually because the angler made it happen—or because the lure came into “contact” with something. Let’s say you’re fishing a jig and trailer combo. The lure will move along, kicking up little clouds of silt as it falls back to the bottom. But then, picture it coming in contact with an object.
It’s action changes.  Perhaps it hangs up momentarily, so that you have to tighten down a little on the bait. Then suddenly it springs off the cover, or falls off the object——that’s when a bass usually pops it!
Any experienced fisherman will tell you he’s had this happen many, many, times.
With this in mind, you realize that some lures have a “mechanical” action. But lures with “random” action are inevitably contact lures. Random action is caused when the lure bumps into something and changes its speed, angle or profile. Very seldom will you see a minnow, shiner, shad or other swimming forage swim very far, without speeding up, slowing down, turning or darting.
Bass are no dummies, they know food that’s safe to eat, has a random action, which looks and acts natural.

Q. Can line size have an effect on the speed of your lure?

Bill: It certainly can, depending on what pound test line you’re using. Example, let’s say your spool is filled with 8-10-pound test, the size of the spool or retrieve speed won’t change much during a cast. But let’s say you’re fishing 20-pound test or heavier. This line will naturally have a much larger diameter, so the spool size may be reduced. Therefore, the retrieve speed in­creases as you crank or work the lure in.

Q. What is the most important feature about a fishing lure?

Bill: Before I say anymore about this bass fishing tip, think about this. It doesn’t matter how pretty a fishing lure looks, or how great it wiggles, wobbles, dives and darts, it’s not going to produce too well if it’s not fished at the proper location. Nor is it going to produce unless it’s fished at the correct depth, and it’s not going to catch much unless it’s presented properly.
So you see, there’s a whole lot more to a fishing lure than just looks and action. Sure, looks and action are very important, but location, depth and presentation are more important.

Q. What lure do you recommend to fish at night?

Bill: Crawfish imitators are often favored for night-fishing, and this includes most of your arsenal of jigs.
The reason? Crawfish move around a lot more at night than they do in the daytime, especially after a rain or when the wind is blowing against the bank. Off-colored water on the windward side is excellent, and you will also do well where there is a drain or run-off; and don’t pass up mud or gravel banks with deep water nearby.
The jig-and-eel and the spinnerbait are good night lures on most lakes during the spring and fall of the year. During the summer, a plastic worm or a spinnerbait will take more fish. Crawl these baits right along the bottom, because bass will be searching the lake floor for salamanders and crawfish. At night on a lowland or midland lake that does not stratify, bass will often move into 3-5 feet of water to feed. Lakes that do stratify through the summer — mountain or highland lakes – are also good at night, but the fish will feed deeper than they will in lowland or midland lakes.
That said, don’t forget surface plugs. They are a lot of fun to fish, too, just remember you might want to wait until you actually feel the fish to set the hook. And that is easier said than done — out there in the dark after hearing a big fish swallow up your bait.

I catch a lot of largemouth bass in farm ponds on small spinner baits. Will they work in larger lakes and reservoirs?

Absolutely!  Most bass fishermen know that bass can become very selective in their feeding habits.

I’ve seen many times, for instance, when you have to downsize your offering to trigger a strike for those finicky times. The option of being able to present smaller bait that has the same appeal as larger bait has definitely helped me catch more fish in all types of water. These tiny size S.B.’s are best suited for clear and slightly stained water especially when bass are shallow and edgy.

During these times, these little 1/16 oz. And 1/8oz. Models is what I switch to when I’m spinner bait fishing.

Yes sires, these compact size lures do a fantastic job—in all types of water.

Q. Do you think most lipless crank baits have poor hooking ability?

Bill: The basic design of these baits work in the favor of the acrobatic bass, simply because the weight of the flat sides provides enough leverage to work the treble hooks free on many occasions.
To help remedy this situation and help eliminate the biggest danger of a bass dislodging the lure when it takes flight…immediately poke your rod tip a couple of feet below the surface. Yes—you heard me right. Stick it down in the water. Although this won’t always be enough to stop the initial jump, you will usually be able to keep a fish from making additional jumps and this is a bass fishing tip that will work in your favor.

Q. Why are spinner baits such excellent all-around bait when largemouth bass fishing?

Bill: It’s the type of bait that will trigger reaction strikes from bass that may ignore slow-moving lures like plastic worms, lizard or jig-and-trailer combinations—spinner baits have a wider zone of attraction because of the action, flash and vibration they produce.

Spinner baits also:

• Can be fished faster, covering more water;
• Draw bass into striking from greater distances;
• Represent a baitfish better than most rigs;
• Can be fished in a wider range of water clarities and water temperatures;
• Can be fished effectively on the bottom or up several feet or more off the bottom;
• Are effective year-round;
• And produce strikes via a wide range of presentations—slow rolling, free falling, bottom bouncing, etc.

Q. Which spinner bait blade or blade combination is best for deep water?

Bill: This is partly determined by the time of the year. Most times, during the warmer-water months, when bass are most aggressive, I will use spinner baits with willow-leaf blades, simply because they have less life and are much easier to keep deep at faster retrieve speeds than rounded-style blades. Because willow-leaf blades have less water resistance and spin faster, you have to retrieve them somewhat faster than you do with most blade styles. Willow-leaf models are also among the easiest to fish down deep.
During colder periods of the year, I’ve had much better success using a rounder style, single blade. These blades produce a stronger beat or thump and can be fished much slower when fishing for cold, sluggish bass.

Q. What do you think large mouth bass prefer more bluegill or crawfish?

Bill: A research team confirmed the preference of bass for crawfish in an experimental pond. During a 20-day series of tests, the 1- to 2-pound bass were offered 1,000 crawfish and 1,000 bluegills. They consistently took crawfish in preference to the bluegill at the amazing ratio of 24 crawfish for every bluegill. In another test it showed bass gained tremendous weight when they ate crawfish and actually lost weight when they ate bluegill.

Q. Bill, when would you use single or tandem blades on spinner bait? Also of the different blades, when is the best time to use them and how do you select size and weight? The lake I fish in Illinois is around 550 acres and gets a lot of pressure and has a lot of moss. Can you help?

Bill: I have answered this one before, perhaps recently, but since it keeps coming Up, I am glad to share some insight. Hope it helps:
Both single and tandem blades can produce well at the same time and in identical situations. However, a bass fishing secret in selecting a spinner bait for clear water is to go with a tandem when fishing less than 5 feet, and use a single blade in deeper depths.
A double works well if the target area is thick and fairly shallow, and the single works best in heavy-stained to muddy water, because it vibrates better. It also casts easier, stays deeper during the retrieve, produces best in cold water and when bass are inactive and during low-light conditions.
Now there are several benefits to using two blades: it usually produces more flash; it tracks better; it’s more wheedles and you can fish it slower.
Since you mention moss in your home lake, perhaps the tandem-blade spinner baits will serve you better. But like any angler, I never want to get caught with just one of anything. Buy some of each, in your favorite colors, and experiment.
I likewise let conditions dictate size and weight of blades. For example, there are going to be times, as in when the wind or current is strong, that added weight will be a must. The same can be said for size of blades (an example would be bigger blades in muddy water).
So the variables are many (we didn’t even touch on the various kinds of blades) and we are just talking about one bait — the spinner bait. And don’t let all this cause your head to spin (sorry). Heck, it is all these variables and the constant need to adjust, plan, scheme, etc. that makes bass fishing such a great sport.

Q. What color crank baits do you use in stained water?

Bill: I usually favor crawfish patterns during the spring when water temperatures range from 55-75 degrees. When the water temps climb to above 75 degrees, I switch to shad patterns.
I think darker colors often work better in extremely muddy water. Even when the sun is shining, a flat finish can often be more visible in dirty water than a reflective finish.

Q. Do you have to fish big baits to catch big fish?

Bill: No sir, you don’t have to fish big lures for big lunkers. But bear in mind, your percentages of catching bigger fish go up when you fish bigger baits. With bigger baits, you are showing the fish a larger meal — one that it can get all at once. Normally, larger bass want to get one big meal and then rest during the digestion process.
Yes, big bass are caught on small baits often, but you also need to note people always say, “How in the world did they land that big fish on that little bait?” Most of the time the answer is that they were lucky. If you know you are fishing big-fish waters, be prepared and show the famed Big One something it is more apt to deem worth the effort — a full course meal.

Q. Is it true that the smellier the bait, the better for cat fishing?

Bill: Well, a great number of cat fishermen believe that the more bait smells, the better it will produce. However, research has shown that the ingredients that make bait smell are not necessarily the ingredients that cause a catfish to come to bait. They have also discovered that many of the baits that produce catfish do not have to be foul-smelling. Researches have found that fresh cut baits actually attract and cause channel and blue cats to bite more readily than rancid baits.

Q. Why does a slight color change in jigs when crappie fishing make all the difference? For example, I am using green and my buddy is using light green, yet he is catching all the crappie. Why?

Bill: It is a known fact that fish see colors and shades of the same color differently in different water clarity and in different light levels. Some colors are highly visible to fish at one time of day and in one water clarity and become practically invisible at another time of day or in different water clarity. This is Mother Nature’s way of protecting some species of forage fish. If they remained visible all the time they would be eaten by predators.
Fishermen often think fish have “turned-off” when a certain color no longer gets bites. It may just be that fish are seeing it differently

Q. Bill, can you give me some tips on tactics on fishing top water baits?

Bill: When I want a lure to create a lot of racket, I’ll choose ole big-mouth…a chugger, like the Poppin’ Image. It creates a lot of noise, and it’s the type plug that can be worked, to basically stay in one small area. And it can be an excellent choice, if you’re forced to fish dingy or heavily stained water. This is just part of my fishing lure guide.
These chugger baits and a fish blows up on the bait and misses it, continue the action, allowing the bass to think the food item is trying to get away.
On baits of this type use a feathered rear hook—when you pop the bait forward, the feathers close extremely fast. When you stop the lure, the feathers reform back to their original position. The bait is reacting even while sitting still.
Normally, the best presentation, once it hits the surface, is to allow it to sit a few seconds or so and then begin with three short poppin’ jerks, then allow it to rest—then repeat—3 -pops and a pause. Use gentle pops in calm water and a strong poppin’ action that creates more sound during windy conditions.
Always maintain a degree of slack in your line. This will help prevent setting the hook to quickly, allowing a second or so, far the bass to get a good hold on it. Rod position is important for effective and effortless retrieves. For best results, start with the rod tip high, gradually lowering it as the lure gets closer. An ideal rod for chugger fishing is a 6 1/2- to 7-foot medium-action. This fast taper, soft tip action allows the bait to respond and rebound between jerks and provides plenty of backbone for a good hook-set and fun fight.
One of my favorite top water lures—the minnow plug, like a Bomber Long A, is long and because of its shape or profile, is easy in the mind of a fish to swallow.
It displays an erratic movement—appearing to be injured, which creates a natural predator response…and finally it’s silent…which means…it gives no clue to being an imitation.
Minnow plugs have a lot going for them, especially when it comes to enticing bass. They are long and skinny, have the proper profile and the ability to be fished slow or fast, on, or below the surface. There’s many a lure that can attract the attention of a bass, but not all of um’ will actually trigger a strike—but these plugs will.
Never be in a hurry to start your retrieve. Always allow it to rest on the surface a while before starting your presentation. Baits of this type make the least amount of commotion; therefore they’re best suited for calm surface conditions and clear water.
For best presentations use a 6 1/2-foot medium to med-light action rod; stiffer actions make it difficult to achieve the correct presentations.
There are 3-highly productive presentations that can be used with a minnow plug. They are the waiting technique, the surface and underwater twitching technique and the sweeping technique.
Experiment with all of these, as you fish, to see which the bass prefer.

Q. How much do anglers spend a year on tackle, boats, motors and fishing-related equipment?

Bill: Well, how much do you think? Five hundred million? Two billion? Ten billion? Well, how about $41 billion! Not that’s a lot of money and the figure traditionally grows annually. That says a lot about our sport—a tremendous outside activity that anyone can enjoy.

Q. Bill, of all the fishing questions you are asked, what’s the single question you are asked the most?

Bill: Well, avid anglers are always asking this question, “When the fishing gets tough, what will catch largemouth bass?” I certainly can’t speak for everyone, but for me, slow presentation lures work best—plastic worms, lizards, tube jigs and jig and pork. When fish are inactive, it is a time when you need to tease them into biting with a slow-moving lure. And sometimes you have to cast it to them several times.

Q. The lakes I fish have mostly wooden objects in them to fish around, like stumps, logs and treetops along the shoreline. Have any tips on this type of fishing?

Bill: I know what I do when fishing what you have mentioned. Of all the objects in the water, none seem to arouse the confidence of a fisherman like a stump. Remember the shady side is typically the best side, and first side to cast to. It is always best to cast beyond your target and then work your lure from up behind and along side. Then do the same thing on the other (sunlit) side. Make several casts, sometimes the fish might not be close to the stump, but near it.
Of course a log is always a fish-attractor, too. If one end is near the surface, you can safely guess that the larger side is water-logged and beneath the surface. The bass could be anywhere along the long, either shallow or deep. Typically, if a log extends out from the bank, the greater cover will be at the end farthest from the water’s edge. Frequently a tree blows down in a storm or rots out and comes crashing into the water.
Again, if you find a stump, consider that the rest of the tree is very likely around somewhere nearby.
When you find a submerged tree/log, the idea is to cast into the tree and work the lure the direction the branches grow.
Never cast across a log or tree, a hook-up on the other side is most likely to end in a lost fish. And you run the risk of spooking others that might have bit.

Q. What’s the best lure in your tackle box?

Bill: How many times have I answered this one? Do you already know the answer, if not, you should.
Confidence is the name of the game. Think you are going to catch fish and you will, or at least you will work harder to make positive things happen.
See you next time, and catch one for me!

Q. How much do anglers spend a year on tackle, boats, motors and fishing-related equipment?

Bill: Well, how much do you think? Five hundred million? Two billion? Ten billion? Well, how about $41 billion! Not that’s a lot of money and the figure traditionally grows annually. That says a lot about our sport—a tremendous outside activity that anyone can enjoy. Be sure to pick up my Bill Dance video!

Q. Is it better to use big spinner baits (3/8-, 3/4-, 1-ounce) for bass?

Bill: Well, the current trend in these lures leans toward bigger and heavier models, and believe me, each one of these have their place. But it is the same with the tiny sizes in spinner baits. They also have a time and place. Check out my bill dance fishing videos for even more tips and tricks!

It’s really surprising just how many avid bass anglers think that these little spinner baits are only for beginners with push-button reels and light action rods. Well, believe me, that’s not the case. I have great success fishing them on my regular spinning rod. In fact I know some anglers that fish ’em with bait casting gear.
And the smaller spinner baits really shine when bass are inactive. During these “turned off” periods, bass have a tendency to be unresponsive to a 2-ounce or even an 3-ounce spinner bait——but toss a 1/8-ounce size in there and it can be a completely different story.
The size and the movement is the key. This mini-size lure moves slowly, giving the bass plenty of time to eat it.
Another advantage to using this size bait is that it’s the type of lure that you can fish through shallow cover without creating a lot of commotion.
Many times when you retrieve larger spinner bait like a 2-ounce or even a 3/8-ounce size through cover like a treetop or bush and the lure’s size and weight bangs against its limbs which pop and swing out, then snaps back, it does at times attract reflex strikes from a few active bass. But a crash-and-bash retrieve through the cover can make inactive bass high-tail it.
Most bass fishermen know that bass can become very selective in their feeding habits. The option of being able to present smaller bait that has the same appeal as larger bait has definitely helped me catch more fish. This applies to any artificial lure I’m fishing —— worm, top water, crank bait, or whatever.
I’ve seen many times, when you have to downsize your offering to trigger a strike from finicky fish. When this happens, I may even switch to 1/8-ounce spinner bait, if spinner baits are what’s called for.
Many anglers seem to have the notion that these small-sized spinner baits are only best during the spring season, but believe me that’s not the case. Anytime you’re dealing with inactive bass, it’s a great choice, when spinner bait fishing. Don’t let its size fool you.
Here’s something to always remember. It’s not uncommon during the day for fish like the bass to change depth levels.
When this occurs, here’s a little spinner bait trick, that’ll really helps you out. Keep using the bait they prefer, but switch to a different blade model.

For shallow depths 1-3 feet or maybe a shade deeper, the Tiny T with the Oklahoma blade is ideal, because it provides lift and allows you to work it much slower because it has much more water resistance. But when bass drop deeper, the willow blade model is the ticket. This blade style has less water resistance, therefore allowing you to fish, and work it deeper——it stays deeper, because like I said, it does have less water resistance.
The key with any fishing lure you use is to establish the correct presentation when using it. At one time and location, a slow steady retrieve may be best. At another time and location the best presentation might be running it just under the surface and at other times retrieving it a short distance and stopping it——allowing it to free fall a foot or two, before reeling it again——might work. You got to experiment, until the fish tell you what they prefer.
One more thing, small spinner baits also work well on waters that receive a lot of fishing pressure. Just throwing something different than the rest of the crowd can make a difference

Q: I have a tackle box with all ranges of lure colors in it. Do bass really even care about lure colors?

Bill: In the book, “Knowing Bass” Dr. Keith Jones writes:
“The answer appears to be a definite yes and an equally definite no.
“Bass apparently do see color. Their color vision is strongest in the areas of medium-red to green. It fails rapidly moving into blues and purples, as it does toward far red. These color extremes are seen as lighter or darker shades of gray to black. Very pale colors of any shade are likely seen as simply light-colored, whereas dark reds, greens, blues and purples are interpreted by bass as simply dark.
“If scientific study’s picture of bass color vision is accurate, it contains a message for anglers. Color is meaningful to bass in some cases and not in others. Because bass discriminate poorly in the blue-violet zone, fussing over minor shade differences in the blue back of a crank bait is pointless. A bass sees all shades of blue as essentially the same (provided, of course, the colors have the same brightness). The same is true of subtle variations in dark purple or dark red lures. Chances are to the bass they simply register as “dark.”
For mid-range colors where bass discriminate best, on the other hand, it makes perfect sense to offer a wide variety of bait colors when even small variations can make a big difference. For example, a variety of mid-range colors may keep heavily pressured bass from generalizing ill experiences across baits. Bass subjected to heavy pressure on dark purple plastic worms might shy away from all dark purple worms equally. Why? Because they view all dark purple worms the same. But bass that have learned to shy away form pumpkinseed worms might see pumpkinseed-with-a-splash-of-red worms as distinctly different and therefore safe to attack.
This same reasoning applies to fishing line; this is a bass fishing secret. If bass see mid-range colors best, why would we think bass have trouble seeing low-vies green lines, or even camouflaged lines? Transparent blue—the color we normally associate with cheap mono filaments—might actually be the best.”

Q. Hey, Bill. I am an avid plastic worm angler and I am experiencing line breakage at my knot, when I set the hook. I use quality monofilament and I tie a good, strong knot. I wet my line before cinching the knot to prevent weakening of my line above the knot, too. Got any idea what is happening?

Bill: First you should check out my fishing lure guide but, more than likely what is happening is the hook-eye is cutting the monofilament. After you have made a number of casts, and possibly even caught a fish or two, the line will shift sometimes on the eye of the hook, and wedge itself where the hook-eye bends back and meets the shank. And, when you set the hook, the line pinches itself in this tiny separation of the hook-eye and breaks.
This is very easy to forget, but it is important to check it periodically—and to take time to do so could be the difference between “landing” and “losing” the trophy of a lifetime. So take time to check out you knot as well as the line several inches above the hook, that most often wears and weakens with through the abrasion of fishing rocks, logs, limbs, etc. You will be glad you did.

Q. A fisherman recently faxed me asking, “How effective are these funny looking Gamakatsu Circle Hooks for trot line fishing?

BILL: Well, I can say for sure they work great! Circle hooks are beginning to become very popular with set-liners because their angled point hooks and holds a cat better as it pulls, tugs and struggles against the tension of a limb, bank pole or trot line Many tips just like this one can be found on the bill dance fishing videos.

Q. I have heard many die-hard crank bait anglers say that you can reach maximum depth control when using small line sizes. Is this true?

Bill: You betcha, especially if you are using a long-enough rod to make a long cast.  As covered in my Bill Dance fishing course, Depth is dictated by line size—not in regards to pound test. The larger the diameter, the more depth-robbing friction that is created as the line is pulled through the water. Check out line diameter when you are wanting to crank deep, it is a factor.
Now, I know what you are thinking and you are right. Catching a good-size bass with 8-10 pound test line in and around cover is a difficult situation. A big fish needs to be finessed. Be sure your drag is set properly and the hooks on the crank bait are extremely sharp.
Sure, you are going to miss some fish, but by not getting that bait down to where you need to, you will miss even more.

Q. Bill what can I do to save a fish that has swallowed a hook?

Bill: First you should check out my fishing lure guide but, the best thing to do when a fish that you plan to catch-and-release has swallowed a hook, or otherwise been hooked in a region that is difficult to remove without harming the fish, is to simply cut the line above the eye of the hook and let the fish go. Studies have shown that many fish can eventually rid themselves of the hook in such cases.
Undoubtedly, if you start doing “surgery” on the fish, it will die. The odds are much better that it will live, if you do as I said above—cut the line above the hook and release it as soon as possible.
You might also consider fishing with barb less hooks, when conditions allow. This too, can help keep those fish that you release healthy for another trip.

Q. Can you give a tip on rigging jigs when vertical fishing?

Bill: Sure. A largemouth bass fishing technique that will surely improve the action of the jig when vertical fishing is to use a loop knot or a hook snap. This allows the jig to slide freely on the hook eye, and the jig will rest in a semi-vertical position in the water. The bait tends to have more action when rigged this way, because of less restriction from the line. Tying directly to the hook-eye will affect the action and make the lure less ap­pealing, especially during those inactive times.

Q. What can you tell me about fishing buzzbaits for bass?

Bill: This is a great largemouth bass fishing technique! When fishing a buzzbait, begin the retrieve before the lure hits the water. This way it always remains on the surface. Buzzing action in open water 20 feet or deeper isn’t as uncommon as many people think. For a slower presentation bend your blades in slightly and add an attractor to your hook to create a quicker and better lift. For short-strikes, add a trailer hook. If the terrain permits, reverse it for better hook-ups. To increase your present speed, bend your blades back or out. Not too far, that it effects the action or sound of your bait.
Buzzbaits normally produce best in stained to semi-clear water. When using a trailer hook, attach a small piece of surgical tubing over the eye of the trailer and run it through main hook. This will keep it ridged and possible keeping the fish from pushing it to the side on the strike, missing the fish completely. For additional sound—use a buzzbait with a clacker blade attached. This combination produces two different sounds, a churning sound from the big blade and a ticking or clacking sound from the other blade.
OK, that’s all for this week’s column. Next week, I’ll discuss more topwater baits and tips on how to use ’em.
In the mean time, catch one for me!

Q. It is true that “smellier” baits are better?

BILL: Well, a great number of cat fishermen believe that the more a bait smells, the better it will pro­duce. However, research has shown that the ingredients that make a bait smell are not necessarily the ingredients that cause a catfish to come to the bait. They also have discovered that many of the baits that produce catfish don’t have to be foul-smelling.
Researchers have shown that fresh cut baits actually attract and cause catfish like the channel and blue to bite more readily than foul-smelling, rancid baits. Generally, freshly caught cut bait will draw in and cause more cats to bite than that same bait will if it’s rancid or allowed to spoil. For more tips and tricks check out bill dances bass fishing guides (bill dance DVDs).

Q. Is it true that crank baits make TV shows and worms win tournaments?

  Bill: There may be truth in there somewhere, kind of similar to the golf saying, “long drives are for show, but chipping and putting are for dough (money/wins).”
In other words, sometimes it may seem that way, but there are always exceptions.
Maybe worms win tournaments at certain lakes at certain times of the year. But consistency is the key — winning year-round. You have to know how to use all tools in your arsenal to win on a consistent basis.
Mark Davis was named 2001 B.A.S.S. Angler of the Year (an honor he has now claimed three times). He is known for cranking’ and obviously has won his share of tournaments doing just that — cranking’.

Q. What can you tell me about fishing buzzbaits for bass?

Bill: When fishing a buzzbait, begin the retrieve before the lure hits the water. This way it always remains on the surface. Buzzing action in open water 20 feet or deeper isn’t as uncommon as many people think. For a slower presentation bend your blades in slightly and add an attractor to your hook to create a quicker and better lift. For short-strikes, add a trailer hook. If the terrain permits, reverse it for better hook-ups. To increase your present speed, bend your blades back or out. Not too far, that it effects the action or sound of your bait.
Buzzbaits normally produce best in stained to semi-clear water. When using a trailer hook, attach a small piece of surgical tubing over the eye of the trailer and run it through main hook. This will keep it ridged and possible keeping the fish from pushing it to the side on the strike, missing the fish completely. For additional sound—use a buzzbait with a clacker blade attached. This combination produces two different sounds, a churning sound from the big blade and a ticking or clacking sound from the other blade.
OK, that’s all for this week’s column. Next week, I’ll discuss more topwater baits and tips on how to use ’em.
In the mean time, catch one for me and don’t forget to pick up my bass fishing dvds!

Q. What’s the best lure in your tackle box?

Bill: How many times have I answered this one? Do you already know the answer, if not, you should.
Covered over and over in my bass fishing videos. Confidence is the name of the game. Think you are going to catch fish and you will, or at least you will work harder to make positive things happen.
See you next time, and catch one for me!

Q. I recently read an article that said predator fish use the eyes of prey fish as focal or aiming points during the strike. Have you ever heard this?

Bill: Yes, I have! The tendency to aim at the eye is so strong in many predators that some bait fish have apparently evolved with tail spots or false eyes as a means of escape. Studies have shown the strike effectiveness of largemouth bass that attacked shiners with and without tail spots. These results show that bass missed spot-tailed shiners twice as often as they missed similar bait fish without spots. The tail dot led the bass to strike the tail of the prey, therefore allowing the black tail shiners to escape by darting forwards. The bass evidently anticipated the direction of movement better when the false eyes or real eyes of the prey move clearly identifying the head.
Perhaps lure makers should reconsider the use of black shad-dots in the tail areas of baits. However, some lure manufacturers are aware of this and go to extra efforts in highlighting the eyes and shad dots close to the head of their lures. Although a game fish like the bass is unlikely to be confused about which end of a moving lure is the front, a false eye or tail dot causes short strikes from time to time especially during slow and stop and go retrieves. This is why I think it’s a good bass fishing technique to use lures that have as natural looking eyes as possible to help the fish take aim.

Q. Bill, can you give me some large mouth bass fishing tips and info on top water?

Bill: Sure. You know, there’s an unique challenge to top water fishing—and there isn’t a fisherman I know, that doesn’t get excited to the thrill of a fish exploding into a lure on the surface and there’s no better way to introduce a beginner to the sport—because the newcomer can see what he or she is doing, and there is no mistaking the results of their efforts. The majority of strikes aren’t little delicate ticks, or loss of feeling in the lure—they’re honest to goodness, knee-bending, wide-eyed, nerve-shattering moments that rank a 10 when it comes to excitement. NOTHING IS MORE EXCITING, ABSOLUTELY NOTHING.
When I discuss true top water lures, I classify them into five different categories, and believe it or not every one contains models in several sizes and colors. In fact, the entire family of lures is one of the largest in fishing. These are five of my favorites.
You’ve got one that’s called the buzz bait, one called a stick bait or walking bait, a prop-bait, the chugger or popper and a minnow plug.
All have their place and it pays to know, when and under which condition, to fish each style. All produce best when the water temps is above 60 degrees and the water clarity ranges from slightly dingy to very clear.
When fishing top water baits, always experiment with different retrievals, until the fish tell you what they prefer. And make repeated cast to likely looking targets or areas.
Keep in mind, that all these baits we’ve discussed catch fish. One will produce better then the other at times—you’ll need to experiment with each until the fish tell you what they prefer at that time and at that location.
Some days top water fishing will be as hot and fast as a bull frog on July asphalt, and other days it won’t—but if you fish one during the prime seasons from mid-spring to fall you can usually catch a few. So if you want to add to something really special to your fishing, tie on a surface plug. Don’t count on winning every trip, instead, count on having the greatest bassin’ excitement you’ve ever known.

Q. Is the direction you retrieve your bait really all that important?

Bill: Yes, it can be important to consider. Lure direction is a variable when determining a pattern. On some days the fish will clobber a bait from shallow to deep and other days from deep to shallow. This is especially true when fishing points. Try all approaches before you convince yourself it is time to move. These are some great largemouth bass fishing techniques to keep in mind.

Q. Can fishing a spinnerbait in deep water be productive?

Bill: One of my most productive largemouth bass fishing techniques throughout the year involves the art of probing deep structure with a spinner­bait.
Fishing spinnerbaits deep provides an excellent way to search for bass quicker than with a plastic worm, jig or other slow-presentation lures. And it allows you to feel for cover areas along or near the structure you’re fishing.
Also, bass can become very selective in their feeding habits, yet these are the times when I’ve seen a spinnerbait out­shine just about anything you could use when fished deep. There are several solid reasons for this special allure:
•   A spinnerbait is the type of lure that can trigger reaction strikes from bass that might ignore slow-moving lures like plastic worms, lizards or a jig-and-pork combination.
•   These bladed baits have a wider zone of attraction be­cause of the action, flash and vibration they produce.
•   Spinnerbaits can be fished faster, covering more water than most other lures.
•   Spinnerbaits draw bass into striking from a greater distance.
•   Spinnerbaits represent a bait­fish better than most other rigs.
•   These lures can be fished in a wider range of water clarity and water temperatures.
•   They can be fished effectively on the bottom or up several feet (or more) off the bottom.
•   Spinnerbaits are effective all seasons of the year.
•   Spinnerbaits produce well with a wide range of presentations, including slow-rolling, free-falling and bottom-bouncing.

Q. Bill, can you give me some information on fishing jigs for crappie, it is that time of year, you know?

Bill: Sure, but let me hand this one off to my friend Steve McCadams, a nationally renowned (and national champion, for that matter) crappie angler for this valuable bass fishing technique.
“The most common artificial crappie bait used in every corner of the country has to be the crappie jig,” said McCadams who regularly guides on the famous Kentucky Lake reservoir.
“No matter where you go, shad is their main food source. Lakes that have a good crappie reputation all have a good forage base of shad whether it is Kentucky Lake or Lake Weiss and Lake Eufaula in Alabama or Santee-Cooper in South Carolina.
“Artificial jigs simulate shad with their movement and often their color, although matching the color of shad is not extremely important. You’ll catch crappie on some wild colors.
“And artificial jigs have really gained popularity in the last couple of decades. The manufacturers have continuously improved these plastic jigs over the years. There are so many good ones on the market now that fishermen will almost get in fistfights over which is the best—minnows or artificial jigs. The jig has gained that kind of reputation.”
Basically, there are two types of plastic crappie jigs: the tube-skirted, hollow-bodied jig and the solid plastic one-piece tail jigs. Both are fished with a small lead head and run from micro 1/64th-ounce sizes to 1/4-ounce for big crappie.
“I have fished every type of crappie jig imaginable, but I prefer the hollow-bodied tube skirt for jigs, most of the time. But that is primarily when I am able to jig straight down over structure in fairly deep water and not having to cast to it.
“These hollow-bodied tube skirt jigs really breathe and the skirt expands when it is sinking. You put the breathing skirt in front of a crappie and it almost can’t resist the motion of it.”
Although McCadams uses the one-piece plastic jigs, for vertical fishing on rare occasions, he said the actions of those lures are better suited for casting and a slow retrieve.
“I use those types of jigs for casting with ultra-light gear,” he explained. “If I am fishing clear water and I find an underwater brush pile that I know is holding fish, I know the fish will be spooky because of the clear water. I’ll then back off and cast to that brush pile. That’s a good application for that type of jigs. The one-piece plastic jigs simply don’t have the action for fishing deep water brush piles, and need to be retrieved to get the action needed to draw strikes.”
He said there are also times when nothing will out-perform crappie jigs wrapped in hair, which can consist of buck tail or one of the new synthetic materials. Both offer brilliant fluorescent colors and hair tend to retain a scent attractant for a longer period of time than some other materials.
Selecting size of jigs can be confusing, since there are so many available. However, McCadams suggests one of the most basic rules: matching the size of the bait with the size fish you expect to catch.
“You have to match your tackle to your fish,” he said.

Q. How do I remove a hook that is embedded in my body…or the body of a fishing buddy?

Bill: If it’s you it is one thing. If you have done it to someone else, you might be referring to an ex-fishing buddy.
Seriously, follow these steps for a quick and painless bass fishing technique to remove a hook imbedded in your flesh. It is as easy as one, two, and three:
Regardless if it is a single hook or if the hook is attached to a lure or treble-hook attachment, remove the hook from the lure. Next, take two feet of fishing line, testing around 20-25 pounds and tie a knot in the loose ends of the line. If you don’t have a sufficiently heavy line, combine two or more strands of 12-pound test or three strands of 8-pound test.
Place the loop around the back of your hand and hold the end between your thumb and forefinger, creating a small loop of line in front of your hand. Place the loop over the eye of the hook and center it firmly in the middle of the hook’s throat.
With the thumb of your hand, push down and back on the eye of the hook and at the same time, give a sharp jerk on the line. The hook will pull out of the same hole it entered causing no additional pain or damage. Once the hook is removed, cleanse the wound with hydrogen peroxide, if  possible. If not, use soap and dab on antiseptic and bandage.
When you return, consult a physician for a possible tetanus shot.

Q. How can I choose a good catfishing hook?

Bill: In selecting catfish hooks, it’s smart to use the smallest hook you can get away with. Catfish have plenty of soft flesh around their mouths, and small hooks penetrate quicker than big hooks. Cats also have powerful jaw muscles, and when they clamp down on your bait, a smaller hook is easier to move on the hook-set. Regardless of the hook you choose to use, it needs to be strong and sharp.

Best Wishes for a Big Bass Year,



P.S. How can you lose money? You've got nothing to lose. Your completely protected by my 365-day guarantee. That’s right you have a full year to return the Bill Dance "Complete Bass Fishing Course " if it doesn’t work for YOU and get your FULL purchase price back.

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